Q: I’ve had loose-fill fiberglass (insulation) in my attic since 1975. I have some new insulation with brown paper covering on one side so I need to know if that is called batts? If it is called insulation batts, then can I put them on top of loose-fill fiberglass? Which side would I put the batts: at bottom or at top?

In your article you wrote about "using unfaced batts only so that you don’t create a double vapor barrier and trap moisture between the layers of batts." What does that mean? I want to understand about it clearly before I put them in the attic. –Becky F.

A: The type of insulation you describe, with the paper facing over the insulation, is indeed what is known as batts. The paper facing is the vapor barrier.

Here’s a quick explanation of how it all works: Inside the house, you create moisture from cooking, bathing, etc. That moisture vapor in the air wants to move from a warm area to a cold area, so it’s naturally always moving toward the ceiling and exterior walls of the house.

Vapor barriers are used to prevent that moisture from getting into enclosed areas where you don’t want it, because once it gets in there, if it can’t escape it can do a lot of damage.

For that reason, batt insulation often comes with a vapor barrier on one side. The vapor barrier is always installed facing the heated side of the wall or ceiling, because that’s where the moisture is coming from.

Now let’s look at your situation, which is a little different. You have loose-fill insulation in the attic, which doesn’t have a vapor barrier. The theory is that part of the moisture vapor in the house is actually blocked by the drywall and paint on the ceiling.

Any moisture that does enter the attic will pass through the loose-fill insulation and exit the attic through the roof vents, so it won’t cause any damage.

It’s fine for you to install your batt insulation over the existing loose fill. However, you want to remove the paper vapor barrier first — simply peel it off and discard it — then lay the batts on top of the loose fill as gently as possible, so that you don’t compress the old insulation.

4. Brick has a lot of thermal mass, so it takes time for heat to penetrate it and warm it up. Therefore, it takes more time for a brick house to respond to temperature changes. When you get home from work and turn on the heat, it’s going to take a lot longer for a brick house to "feel" warm than for a conventional wood house.

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